London-based designer Martine Rose has long been a fan of Nike, having used the US brand's sneakers to complete her runway looks as far back as 2018. It was in 2019 that Rose and Nike kickstarted their official working relationship – then the designer and the sportswear giant unveiled a distorted take on Nike's Air Monarch IV sneaker. The silhouette, which was originally released in the 2000s, is recognised for its chunky construction, comprising padded insoles and thick leather outers and Rose's take on the sneakers was by-and-large not dissimilar to the original design save for the inclusion of bulbous, bunion-like detailing across the shoe. At the time the brand with the Swoosh described the partnership as “the best collaboration in the world.” The sneakers sold out instantly.
Rose, who has worked in the industry since 2007 with her own brand and in a past tenure at Balençiaga, partnered with Nike again in 2021. This time round it wasn't footwear at the centre of the collaboration – instead, Rose was enlisted to reinvent the England football team's jersey. Rose's shirt sat within a project titled “The Lost Lionesses” and was inspired by a group of 14 English women who travelled to Mexico City in 1971 to play in an international football tournament, despite critics at the time saying women shouldn't play football. The inside-out and intentionally-oversized kit featured the OG 1971 women's crest, taking the form of three lions stacked within a Tudor rose, while the designer added her initials and “Engineered to the exact specifications of Martine Rose" wording.
Now Rose has unveiled her latest Nike project, which will get sneakerheads who missed out on the Air Monarch three years ago clutching at their credit cards.
Rose has returned to footwear and has given Nike's Shox an update. Officially named the Nike Shox MR4, the sneakers were presented as part of Rose's Spring 2023 collection, which she staged down in London's Vauxhall yesterday evening as part of London Fashion Week. As yet Nike and Rose haven't revealed any official close-up imagery of the collaborative kicks, but from what we saw on the catwalk, you can expect them to be unlike anything ever put out by Nike alone.
Nike's technical Shox silhouette, which was designed by the label's esteemed footwear master Bruce Kilgore in 1984, historically comes with a mechanical cushioning system at the rear, inspired by the sort of thing NASA's astronauts would wear on their feet. The result is a streamlined sneaker, with two rocket booster-esque pumps at the back, which would slightly compress with wear.
Rose's shoes, which come in black and red and all-white versions, feature those same design elements, but she has given the sneakers an open, mule-like back, which is a first for a closed-toe Nike shoe. This is hardly surprising as mules (cut from faux crocodile skin and supple calfskin leather) have become a mainstay in Rose's seasonal collections, paired with rigid, straight-cut jeans and swishy, Seventies-inspired flared slacks. Additionally the new slip-ons also come with a sharper, more angular toe bed, which spark a resemblance to the rigidity of Rose's signature, squared-off loafers.
Neither Nike or Rose have announced when the sneakers will be available, but as with the previous Air Monarch IVs, expect an extremely limited release some time later this year.
NOW READ
The best men’s trainers in the world this week
The best white trainers to get that box-fresh look
Ronnie Fieg has two new Kith New Balance sneakers on the way
