36 Hours
36 Hours in Santiago, Chile
Because Santiago, Chile’s sprawling capital, is the gateway to some of the world’s greatest natural wonders — Patagonia, the Atacama Desert, Easter Island — many travelers understandably breeze through. It might not wow like Rio de Janeiro or Buenos Aires, but scratch the surface and the city is alive with music, art and nightlife, against the arresting backdrop of the Andes. Divisions still run deep, 50 years after Gen. Augusto Pinochet’s U.S.-backed coup d’état ushered in a 17-year dictatorship. Just four years ago, Chile exploded into cathartic and, at times, violent unrest, as hundreds of thousands of Santiaguinos protested social inequalities. The scars are there for all to see. But if you’ve made it all this way, you should give Santiago a chance to impress.
Recommendations
- A hike to the top of Cerro San Cristóbal offers the best views of the city and the Andes Mountains, particularly after rain has cleared the air.
- The Persa Víctor Manuel flea market boasts music, art and good food on Saturdays and Sundays.
- The Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos tells the story of General Pinochet’s dictatorship, and helps to explain the Chile you see today.
- La Pulpería Santa Elvira remixes seasonal Chilean classics and is one of Santiago’s most exciting restaurants.
- Salsoteca Maestra Vida, a two-room salsa club, gets going late and takes you through into the small hours.
- Blondie, a former cinema-turned-L.G.B.T.Q. nightclub, hosts a varied crowd.
- El Bajo is a plant-filled mezzanine bar beneath the GAM, an arts center in the historic Lastarria neighborhood that hosts exhibitions, book fairs and live events.
- Casa de la Cueca showcases Chile’s national dance, la cueca, and serves hearty dishes on the first Sunday of each month.
- El Portal Ex Bahamondes is the birthplace of the completo, Chile’s culinary obsession.
- El Franchute del Barrio is the lively setting for French-inspired weekend lunches.
- Café Escondido is a fun bar tucked down an alleyway in the city center.
- La Chascona, the former home of the poet Pablo Neruda, is stuffed with trinkets and collectibles.
- Factoría Franklin is a new arts and cultural space with stalls, creative workshops and AFA Galería, a modern art gallery.
- Centro Artesanal Los Dominicos, a former convent right at the end of L1 on the metro, is a one-stop shop for Indigenous handicrafts, leatherware and assorted artisanry.
- Metales Pesados and Ulises in the city center are two of Santiago’s finest bookstores.
- The Singular Santiago in Lastarria is an upmarket option with a smart rooftop bar and views towards Cerro San Cristóbal. Double rooms start from around 180,000 Chilean pesos, or about $204, for the night.
- The Hotel Boutique Castillo Rojo, in a renovated colonial mansion in the Bellavista neighborhood, is a boutique option with rooms starting from about 140,000 pesos.
- Hostal Forestal, a laid-back city center hostel, has private rooms with ensuite bathrooms starting from 32,000 pesos. A bunk bed in a six-to-eight-person dormitory costs about 12,000 pesos.
- Short-term rentals are abundant. Find somewhere along the metro’s L1 in Providencia or Lastarria to be close to the action.
- Uber and Cabify compete for ride-hailing traffic, and both are safe and reliable. Taxis are fine, too, but you’ll nearly always have to pay in cash — make sure the meter is running before you set off. The metro is extensive and safe, but as with any city, watch out for pickpockets. Buses rattle along all of the main routes and are relatively cheap and easy to use.
- Streetside bike rental (download the Bike Itaú app) is a good option, but parking docks are concentrated in the wealthier neighborhoods. Be wary of disconnected bike paths and merciless bus drivers. On Sundays, many of the city’s main arteries are closed to cars for the Ciclorecreovía, an event that allows for leisurely exploration on foot and by bike.
Itinerary
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